Olive Oil in Brief

How to select olive oil for your kitchen? Neither price nor color is a good indicator. Pretty bottles don't reveal anything of value either. A starting point is the five-type classification of olive oils sold in North America:

• EXTRA VIRGIN — 1% maximum acidity
• VIRGIN — 2% maximum acidity
• OLIVE OIL — a blend of refined oil with one or both of the 'virgin' types (sometime labeled as "pure olive oil")
• 'LIGHT' OLIVE OIL — blended to give a light color, taste and aroma
• OLIVE POMACE OIL — another blend

Which to buy? In general, avoid 'light' and pomace oils. Extra Virgin is the choice for sprinkling on pasta, making dressings, and dipping. Virgin and 'pure' olive oil are suited to cooking/sautéing.

Here are three oils that fit the requirements for sprinkling on pasta, making dressings, dipping, and sautéing:

Frantoia Extra Virgin — A medium-fruity, premier oil from Sicily. For everything except sautéing (for that I use a lower-cost oil). Under $10 per half-liter (just over a pint). You may have to poke aro, but it's probably worth the effort.

Colavita Extra Virgin — An Italian import that sells for about $6 per half-liter. A general-use, widely-available oil. Definite olive oil taste. www.colavita.com

Italica Pure — Despite its name, Italica comes from Spain. It's a bargain at about $5 per liter. Great for sautéing; also works well in dressings; it has very little taste. Widely available.

Store oils in cool, dark locations for up to a year. Do NOT refrigerate.

A California company, Spectrum Naturals, has a detailed description of both olive and canola oils on its website. If you're serious about oil, it's a good place to visit.