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©2002-2005 J. Eidem. All rights reserved.

How to Make Norwegian Potato Lefse — Stavanger Style

Easy on the flour,
Fast on the pace
Or the dough will stick
All over the place.

Roll 'em out thin,
Fry 'em out quick;
With butter and sugar
They'll go down slick.

Martin and Todnem in
Cream and Bread

Two foods stir the soul of Norwegian-Americans—lutefisk and lefse (sometimes spelled 'lefsa'). While some may question lutefisk's place in polite society, potato lefse has risen from peasant fare to delicacy status among Viking descendants.

©2003 J. Eidem. All rights reserved.How can a soft flat bread cooked up from potatoes, flour, butter and cream become a universal foodstuff for offspring of Norwegian immigrants?  "In America," writes Kathleen Stokker, "the mingling of traditions from different parts of Norway together with the passage of time has resulted in a generalized practice probably unlike any single tradition originally brought from the Old Country."

This happened, we think, partly because lefse is just plain wonderful. But it's also true that lefse is more than the scientific blending of ingredients. It's an art form that requires a few special tools and a preparation that defies simple description. If one "thinks" Norwegian when eating lefse, many say they "feel" Norwegian when making the stuff.

©2003 J. Eidem. All rights reserved.Explaining why Minnesotans eat so much lefse, Sylvia Paine wrote in "Land of Lefse" in 1988: "Our hurried, harried lives lack continuity. Eating lefse restores some sense of tradition." Obviously lefse isn't just food, it's edible legend. There's even an American Lefse Hall of Fame (in Nevada, of all places).

Nowadays you can buy lefse from several specialized bakeries, but there's nothing like the enjoyment of fresh homemade lefse slathered with butter and sprinkled liberally with sugar. That indeed is the genuine article one writer has described as "perfectly round, a delicate and translucent potato doily."

Our lefse recipe is at least a century old, brought to America by our maternal grandparents from the Stavanger area of western Norway. We're now into four generations of lefse-making on this side of the Atlantic. Always for Thanksgiving and Christmas, but also when the Great Lefse Urge strikes.

We stick to ingredients true to the family original—real potatoes, real butter, real cream. In other words, real lefse. Follow our lefse recipe and you too can share a special Norwegian treat with your family.

To make about 24 lefse:
  • 5 lbs (2+ kg) or about 10 large potatoes
  • 3/4 cup (6 oz) heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup melted butter
    (= 8 tablespoons or 1/4 lb or 1 stick)
  • 1-1/2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 4-5 cups all-purpose flour

Prepare the potatoes and basic lefse dough

Tools you'll need:

Potato ricer
Lefse griddle
Lefse rolling pin
Rolling pin cover
Lefse stick
Lefse board

Boil the Potatoes: There are two ways to boil the potatoes; both produce similar results, although peeled potatoes absorb some cooking water. Cooking without peeling is a little quicker and helps preserve nutrients.

©2003 J. Eidem. All rights reserved.[1] Peeled method. Peel and cube the potatoes. Place potato cubes in a large pot, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Add a teaspoon or two of salt. Reduce heat and simmer until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 15-20 minutes (russet potatoes cook faster than red ones). Remove pot from heat and drain the cooking water (save the water—it makes excellent soup stock).

[2] In-the-skin method. Scrub skins, then place potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold water and bring to boil. Boil gently until a sharp knife easily penetrates a potato, about 20-25 minutes (russet potatoes cook faster than red ones). Remove pot from heat, drain cooking water, and let potatoes cool enough to handle. Remove and discard peels.

Rice the Potatoes: While potatoes are still warm, use a ricer to mash them completely. Rice the potatoes in batches into a large pot or bowl. Then rice the potatoes a second time using a ricing disk with the smallest openings.

Add Butter and Cream: Add the cream, melted butter, sugar and salt to the riced (mashed) potatoes and mix thoroughly. (Some lefse-makers prefer vegetable oil rather than butter; use oil if you wish, but butter is more true to Stavanger-style lefse).

Refrigerate the Dough: Cover the dough and refrigerate overnight or NOT LESS THAN 10 to 12 hours. Take this commandment on faith.

What potatoes to use...reds or russets...or what?

Any potato will probably do and every cook has a favorite. But there are real differences. Common reds and new white potatoes are relatively low in starch and high in water content. If you use them, they shouldn't be fresh (grandma said to use old potatoes). Reds and new potatoes take somewhat longer to cook.

Medium-starch, medium-moisture potatoes include names like 'all-purpose', Maine, eastern russet, Finnish and Yukon Gold. They are 'mealy' and make for an easily-worked dough and a slightly softer lefse than reds or new whites. Lefse made with yellow-fleshed potatoes like Yukon Gold or Finnish will be 'yellowish' too.

The Idaho baker best represents the high-starch, low moisture variety. Because of their larger size, they may take longer to boil in their skins.


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